1987 4Runner 4x4 22RE SR5 (4 cylinder, fuel
injected) Five Speed Manual Transmission, $6,000 CASH, sorry no trades. (I'll only take $6,000, please don't offer me less.)
Cons:
1. [This may no longer occur now that the EGR has been fixed, in fact it hasn't happenned in some time now.] Occasionally,
when accelerating hard, there is a very short hesitation of the engine. The
engine runs fine afterwards expect the valve action sound louder for a
while. That gets better after more driving. If you give it a good
valve adjustment (which is easier to do on it than most vehicles,) that fixes it. Note: This engine can sound spectacular with a good value adjustment!
2. I have successfully
re-wired several components of the car. After being re-wired the
circuit got better electricity and often worked better. Some of the
re-wiring acts as anti-theft.
3. It has a persistent
valve cover gasket oil leak as the rear half
moon is not as high as the engine block. When I raise the half-moon
with silicone the leak stops for a while. This makes it look like there
is a rear main leak but I am not sure there is one (hopefully not.)
I drove it loaded down with my stuff from Sonora to Santa Cruz and the
oil didn't get dirty. It can get dirty though just being parked.
A compression test was done roughly 5000 miles ago ago by a
professional mechanic, documented results were: 140,
150, 140, 130. I've never seen smoke come out of
its exhaust pipe.
4. A body filler repair to a dent on the roof has
come undone. It's not easy to see this dent because it's so high up.
5. The AC is not working due to the
control/activation cable mechanism being broken, not the compressor
being bad (as far as I know.) One of the linkage connections to the AC
and
heater is broken. The fan
control and the air conditioning activation switch still work
fine. The compressor I assume still works fine. It's lever/control still
works fine.
The
fan always only had the higher two
speeds working, the most important ones fortunately. I replaced the fan
switch but it made no difference. Also the separate control mechanism
for using outside air,
or recirculating the inside air, still works fine but until it's fixed
this has to be changed manually.
What I have to adjust by hand, and haven't fixed yet (I tried) is (1)
the adjustment to how much air goes to what part of the car (the
defroster, upper body, or to the driver's legs) and (2) what
intensity of cold air is sent out, or hot air, so in the summer I keep
the later at on one extreme position and in winter in another extreme
position which I set manually. (3)
The air conditioner light switch goes on but the air conditioner does
not activate. I think something can be jerry rigged here and I think
the AC still works.
To fix this the upper area of the dashboard may need to be opened up (I
think.) There is an area way up under the horizontal top part of the
dashboard where these connections merge and connect but the ring (?)
that connects them (I think it's a ring) broke so these control arms
are hanging there unconnected. The opening to connect them all together
at is small too, I tried to put a paper clip through them all but
couldn't reach it well enough to make it work. When I held all the
pieces together with my hand, the whole thing worked great.
6. This is not a good vehicle
to drive in long stop-and-go traffic jams. This manual transmission
will need to be replaced soon but is doing ok now as only a city driver. Tiger Motors put some special fluid in the transmission that has helped it. The transmission sounds particularly bad if on the highway. I have not found the
transmission to need fluid topping off in multiple years now but in
2017, a while after it was installed, when I checked the fluid for
maintenance, I found a bit of metal powder glittering in the
transmission fluid. Since then I have not seen metal in the fluid for
several years now and Tiger Motors didn't find any in it either. I always put Prolong Transmission Treatment in the
fluid. Ebay sells these transmissions.
7. The passenger front seat is gone (I
don't have it) so I could put a dog comfortably in its place, or
groceries in the front seat area instead of only the back which was
hard to reach even when the passenger seat was down. Passengers
can still ride in the back seats which have head rests and seat belts.
The seats in this 4Runner are not original, those were put in before
I got the vehicle and are Toyota Corolla, Tercel or some other older
Toyota seats which are available at salvage yards, thus another of the
same seats can be found. I took the seat out because it was too
difficult to reach over the passenger seat to use the rear seat. It is
a two door which I think was the problem.
8. This has not been much of an issue lately but when hitting bumps as it's driven, the back
window might barely jiggle, making an irritating sound, but nothing is broken.
The rear window housing can be taken off and worked on when it gets to be an issue.
9. Rear window windshield wiper and washer does
not work, I've never tried fixing it. The mechanism is there though, it
likely just doesn't get electricity to operate.
10. Rear window defroster is jerry-rigged and
not particularly effective. The original defroster never worked for me
and I only half-heartedly tried to fix it.
11. There was some kind of minor oil leak showing
itself under the power steering pump. I haven't had to put power
steering fluid in it for years. It might be engine oil from
the chronic bad valve cover gasket leak. It isn't enough to leave drops or a
puddle on the pavement under it.
12. I see at least one bushing on the steering linkage
that I think could use replacing at some point. The power steering
works well and frankly I think the steering feels normal for an older
car.
13. The dashboard light(s), front parking lights
and rear interior courtesy light operate on a separately added circuit.
Those are brighter and easier to see now. WHEN YOU TURN ON THE LIGHTS AT NIGHT THIS EXTRA BUTTON NEEDS TO BE PUSHED!
14. A
clunking when pushing the brake pedal at times is heard. Because of this I
took the vehicle to Tiger Motors and $800 later they made some changes
but this still can happen, just not as often - This has no affect on
anything that I'm aware of and is just a
sound - A clunk might be heard on occasion by your foot when braking.
15. The backup lights work fine last I checked but part of the
circuit's wiring harness along side the transmission (which is easy to
access) it is held together informally and should be replaced.
16. This rarely happens but if you turn the steering
wheel too hard (very hard) I think the steering linkage rubs against
itself and makes a horrible, scary noise, but doesn't seem to hurt
anything. If the steering linkage bushings were replaced that might
eliminate this issue.
17. The car's dark paint is not naturally shinny like
on many cars, it's duller in color but looks fine.
18. It has a ding in each rear corners,
both of which can be fixed. Also the clear coat is
scratched on a small part of the rear driver's side. however it doesn't
show when good wax is on it.
19. The rear differential works fine (as
far as I know,) it has a newly replaced pinion seal oil and nut
(but may already be leaking some differential fluid, though that
doesn't affect the driving as far as I know.)
20. The aftermarket rear window activation switch can be sticky at times, replacing it likely will take care of that issue.
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Sorry but due to insurance reasons only I can
drive the car during our test drive.
The car and its owner (me) have a good reputation thus it's never
been involved in a crime or had people mad at it. That is significant
because it's a vehicle which stands out a good deal.
No warranty
on the vehicle, this 4Runner is sold as-is. Thank you.
